The month after the Watches & Wonders show is always a more subdued affair compared to April’s heady days of nonstop news and releases. While the world of horology recovers from last month’s frenetic activity in Geneva, a few moments of excitement emerged from the May doldrums. The troubled Only Watch auction finally saw daylight, with a Patek Philippe minute repeater going for over $17 million USD. Meanwhile, fashion brand Kith made a headscratcher out of TAG Heuer’s relaunched Formula 1 watch. aBlogToWatch founder, Ariel Adams, took the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms where few gold divers ever go: into the ocean. Finally, watch historian Jose Pereztroika dug deep into the provenance of a ‘Mystery Cross’ Daytona. Read on!

New Release: Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono ‘Cycling Edition’ Watch

Last month, we discussed Tudor’s sponsorship of Miami FC, the MLS club part-owned by Tudor ambassador, David Beckham. Shortly after, the brand launched an extremely limited version of its chronograph, sporting a pink dial that was a dead-ringer for the Miami FC uniforms. Yet, Tudor adamantly insisted the new watch was not a Miami FC edition. What to make of this? As it turns out, Tudor was up to its old tricks, dropping hints that seemingly nobody — including us — picked up on. In May, Tudor announced its new Pelagos FXD Chrono ‘Cycling Edition’ to celebrate its sponsorship of the Tudor Cycling Team. With a unique cycling-oriented tachymeter rehaut and a red-black titanium motif to match the team’s unis, it’s a verifiable tool watch. If Tudor’s team makes it to the podium at this summer’s Giro d’Italia, they’ll surely be sporting two things: this watch and the race leader’s signature jersey which is — you guessed it — bright pink. Very clever, Tudor.

Source: aBlogToWatch

Only Watch Raises $28 Million Despite Christie’s Website Failure

On the heels of November’s ignominious headlines regarding Only Watch’s fundraising, the re-scheduled event finally took place on May 11. Raising over $28 million USD, the 2024 edition was the most successful yet, raising more money than ever for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Yet, it may have done even more with a buggy web interface from auction host Christie’s preventing most people from bidding online. Instead, interested bidders were directed to bid by phone for the piece unique watches featured at Only Watch.

Source: WatchPro

“Swiss Made” Should Never Be Printed On A Watch Part Not Made In Switzerland

ABTW’s Editor-at-Large, David Bredan, took time this month to say what we’ve all been thinking: Swiss brands deceive the public at their peril. With clarity and lucid explanation, his latest edition of “Grinding Gears” contains everything you need to know about what “Swiss Made” truly means. The bigger question: what happens when Switzerland’s secret gets out?

Source: aBlogToWatch

Toledano & Chan’s B/1 Is The Most Interesting Watch Design Of The Year

Speaking of non-Swiss watches, arguably the most compelling release of the month came from an Instagram collaboration between NY-based collector Phil Toledano and Hong Kong designer Alfred Chan. Their eponymous Toldeano & Chan’s first watch is the B/1, a brutalist-inspired destro piece with a lapis dial that’s got MOMA written all over it. While some balked at the $4,000 USD price tag for a Sellita SW100-powered watch, the 175-piece limited run sold out quickly enough to confirm that even in a softening market, collectors will always see value in something unique.

Source: Revolution Watch

aBlogToWatch Goes Racing In Long Beach And Miami 

In what was a truly special month for the ABTW team, three of our correspondents went behind the scenes of high-octane racing. In Miami, Jake Witkin toured the F1 paddock and beyond with H. Moser & Cie. What facilitated this facetime with CEO Edouard Meylan and elbow-rubbing with Pierre Gasly? The launch of Moser’s Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Alpine F1 Team Limited Edition in BWT Pink. Just a few days prior, Ed Rhee and Sean Lorentzen took to the IndyCar circuit for “America’s Longest-Running Street Race,” the Long Beach Grand Prix, getting up close and personal with both some of the most powerful vehicles on four wheels, as well as TAG Heuer’s new F1 Chronograph X Indy 500 watch.

Source: aBlogToWatch

Understanding The Art Of Guilloché Dials And Examples Of Guilloché Patterns

In a sea of brand-centric content, there’s something very grounding about educational primers. One such read comes from Xavier Markl over at Monochrome where the author breaks down in exacting detail the varying styles of guilloche decoration. From Petite Tapisserie to Soleil Inca to plain old stamping, the photo-rich piece is an excellent starting point for those dipping a toe into the world of haute horology.

Source: Monochrome

Hands-On Debut: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith Watches

For better or for worse, one of the more talked-about releases of the month was the re-launched Formula 1 from TAG Heuer. An icon of the brand from the ‘80s and ‘90s, the 2024 version (or rather versions) is/are aesthetically quite pleasing. Partnering with streetwear brand Kith, TAG seems to have taken the Moonswatch model of watch retailing and turned it up to eleven. Collectors must be highly motivated in order to track down their preferred model with certain colorways limited not just in number, but sold only via Kith boutiques in places like Toronto and Hawaii. The collab found some community opposition to the price tag, as well: $1,500 USD per watch or $18,000 USD for the full collection, a $500 premium versus buying individually. Good luck with that.

Source: aBlogToWatch

They Built A $100 Million Watch Empire. Then The Market Tanked

While we don’t often navel-gaze on the topic of watch journalism, a widely-circulated piece from the Wall Street Journal is hard to ignore. A sobering read, Jacob Gallagher tracks the meteoric rise of Hodinkee, its expansion into retailing, and subsequent troubles as the wider luxury watch market shifted in the past couple of years. While lean times in the watch world are well-documented, the WSJ puts figures into the mix and drives home the point that watch retailing is a fickle business.

Source: WSJ

Under The Waves With The Gold Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm

Man overboard, but make it glamorous. Taking the plunge with Blancpain off the coast of California, aBlogToWatch founder, Ariel Adams goes deep with the brand’s updated 42mm version of the famous Fifty Fathoms diver. Partnered with ocean research non-profit Oceano, Blancpain’s day beneath the waves showed the unexpected ways in which gold makes perfect sense for dive watches. Naturally resistant to corrosion and the same weight as even the lightest titanium once you’re submerged, the decadent diver is as capable as it is comfortable.

Source: aBlogToWatch

The Boss’ ‘Mystery Cross’ Paul Newman ‘Panda’ Daytona 6265 At Sotheby’s

When it comes to watch research, Jose Pereztroika may very well be the best in the biz. What started as a not-so-simple Rolex Daytona with the unmistakable “Mystery Cross” caseback turned out to be connected to one of the most important patrons of mountaineering’s Golden Age. In airtight detail, Jose carefully guides the reader through the provenance of the watch, as well as a fascinating history of high-stakes climbing in the 1950s.

Source: PerezScope

A Recap Of The 2024 San Francisco Windup Watch Fair And EDC Expo

Among collectors, Windup is fast becoming an institution unto itself. Organized by a team of in-house professionals at Worn & Wound, the latest edition in San Francisco saw 94 brands (not all of them watchmakers) hawking wares, launching products, and building community. With thousands in attendance over three days, highlights included Christopher Ward’s “Man in the States,” Mike Pearson making connections with fans, and Marc Frankel of Islander Watches handing out $50 bills to anybody rocking an Islander. Now that is keen marketing.

Source: Worn & Wound