One of the most prevalent high-end trends of the past several years has been the rise of the factory rainbow gem-set watch. As traditional precious metals like yellow gold have waned somewhat in popularity, brands have turned toward elaborate gem settings as a more modern display of opulence, and across the industry, this trend has evolved in a multitude of directions and styles. H. Moser & Cie. is the latest brand to join this rapidly expanding segment, blending its unique brand of luxurious minimalism with one of its most dramatic complications, along with a deceptively simple gem-set bezel design. The new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow series delivers a sleek and impressively elegant take on the gem-set integrated bracelet sports watch, with a design that deftly balances simplicity and spectacle.

Available in either stainless steel or 5N red gold, the 40mm-wide case of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow follows the Streamliner series’ smooth, rounded overall form. Elements such as the recessed brushed case sides and fluted conical crown are carried over from the larger collection, but the centerpiece of these new designs is the new gem-set bezel concept. In true Moser fashion, this rainbow jewel-set design’s apparent simplicity in images hides a wealth of thoughtful details. Each of the 60 colored sapphires (weighing in at a total of 2.9 carats overall) on display on this bezel design are individually baguette cut to form a continuous spectrum of not only color but size as well, creating a flowing and shifting visual effect around the rounded-square form in images. In addition, the fact that there are 60 individual stones allows them to be used as a cleverly integrated minutes scale, freeing up the dial design to remain as pared-back as possible. Despite the new emphasis on flash, the Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow remains one of H. Moser & Cie.’s sportier options, with a respectable 120 meters of water resistance.

Both case variants of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow are paired with unique dial designs, chosen to best accentuate their respective case materials. The 5N red gold model takes the more minimal approach here, with a dial surface in ultra-dark matte Vantablack paired with red gold sandwich-style lozenge indices, and a matching stepped baton handset in red gold. By contrast, the stainless steel model offers a more visually sumptuous look in images, with the brand’s signature dramatic fumé effect above a warm silver sunburst dial with an engraved H. Moser & Cie. signature at 12 o’clock. Here, the brand opts for applied indices to pair with its handset as well. For both variants, however, the real highlight of the dial design is the skeletonized tourbillon window at 6 o’clock. With a curving, heavily pared-back tourbillon bridge and a 60-second rotation, this tourbillon display functions as both a nearly unimpeded viewport into the beating heart of the movement as well as a subtle running seconds display.

H. Moser & Cie. powers the Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow with its in-house HMC 804 automatic tourbillon movement. As one might expect, the overall finishing on the HMC 804 is impeccable in photos, with Côtes de Genève accented by polished anglage and sinks for the bridges, topped by a cutout rotor in red gold featuring arabesque brushing and frosted recessed areas. In terms of performance, the HMC 804 provides a hefty 72 hours of power reserve at a 21,600 bph beat rate. Like the rest of the Streamliner family, the brand finishes these watches with the line’s distinctive integrated single-link bracelet, with flowing organic links and polished chamfers to complement the vertically brushed main surfaces.

By adding a rainbow gem-set bezel to one of its most upscale integrated sports models without sacrificing the thoughtful, luxe minimalist aesthetic that defines the brand, the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow collection creates one of the most compelling offerings in the current rainbow gem-set trend. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow line is available now through authorized dealers. MSRP for the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow collection stands at $119,900 USD for stainless steel models and $175,000 USD for red gold models, as of press time. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.